The neoliberal consensus of the last two-and-a-half decades, in which emerging economics have been encouraged to open up their agricultural markets and export raw materials while the US and EU have maintained their $250bn-a-year farming subsidies, is under powerful challenge in South America.
Leftwing governments, including Kirchner’s in Argentina, are reclaiming food sovereignty and a greater share of the profits. Part of that has involved taking on the big concentrations of corporate power that characterise many parts of the global food system – the “untouchables”, as one Argentinian official described them.